- #MANCO GO KART TORQUE CONVERTER COVER DRIVER#
- #MANCO GO KART TORQUE CONVERTER COVER FULL#
- #MANCO GO KART TORQUE CONVERTER COVER ZIP#
What you have now that wasn't there before is a backplate that it all mounts on, eliminating the separate jackshaft.
#MANCO GO KART TORQUE CONVERTER COVER DRIVER#
The separate "drive shaft" (that's the jackshaft, an interim shaft that carries your driven pulley and jackshaft secondary sprocket between the motor shaft and the rear axle), with its driven pulley and secondary sprocket mounted on it, and the driver pulley (clutch) and belt constituted a complete "torque converter" or "TC", aka "CVT" or "Constant Variable Transmission". Don't know what you're calling the "main sprocket", the "drive sprocket', "too high and too close", "drive shaft for converter pulley", etc. Let's get the same terminology working here so it's understood what you're saying. Maybe one is a 1 seater and the other is 2 seater? Or possibly the years they were made? I was able to source 2 different #'s for this kart, but I don't know which is mine or if relevant to the discussion here. Is there something I am missing? Let me know if more pics are needed, I will get them when I get home. I'll have to use wood or hire it out, because I do not own or have much experience with welding. Should I move the main sprocket or should I move the motor? I am also thinking I need to elevate the motor even more than he did with the bracket he fabricated. I keep watching videos and looking at pics online, but I can't quite get enough detail to determine where the problem lies in this kart's setup.
The issue I am having, is I believe that the drive sprocket is way too high and too close to the motor, or the motor is too close to it, I am unsure and this is definitely where my inexperience is hindering me. I have some pics to attach with where I am at now, but I'm kicking myself for not taking any before picks of how it was assembled. I ended up using a grinder to remove the pipe the previous owner had added to the mounting bracket he fabricated for the old converter shaft. Eventually, I want to remove the oil sensor, governor and do a stage one, but I don't want to bother until I can get the kart running properly with this new converter kit. I pulled the old converter kit off, disconnected the chain and throttle cable and pulled the motor out to change the oil and to turn the crank to make it easier on my kids and remove the operation of the oil sensor. He had fabricated a mount out of steel that he put a small steel tube on to hold this long shaft with appropriate bearings etc. The Drive shaft for the converter pulley that he put on there was exceptionally long, it actually went as far as the motor is wide. The guy I bought this from had replaced the motor it came with originally, with a Predator 212cc 6.5hp Gas. With the problems I was having, I decided to order a new kit from amazon. I can't seem to find anywhere if that is normal because of the torque converter or if it should stay still in idle? I also found that this kart keeps trying to go with the foot off the break and I cannot hold it back. The kart kept stalling out about every 5 minutes.
#MANCO GO KART TORQUE CONVERTER COVER ZIP#
This did the trick, but after taking it out to ride for a couple hours I found that the clutch pulley was producing so much heat it melted the zip tape I used to mend the converter cover. I ordered what I thought would fit, based on the necessary measurements and swapped it out. I had planned to order one forever but let it slide until my son asked me again about it recently so I got motivated. Our issues began when the not in terrible condition drive belt broke off.
#MANCO GO KART TORQUE CONVERTER COVER FULL#
At the time, I was in full blown house building mode, so when we began having issues (almost right away) I procrastinated. I have a Dingo Manco Fox 2x5 LXT that I bought off of someone from FB Market about 2 years ago.
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